Manufacture of lace with body bearing leaflike figures



Jan. 5 1926. M 1,568,048

. E. BOSEBECK IANUFACTURB 0F LACE WITH BODY BEARING LEAF- LIKE FIGURES Filed Sept. '7. 1923 Fig. 1

F N "M lm Patented Jan. 5, 1926.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

EMIL BUSEBECK, E BARMEN, GERMANY, ASSIG-NOB TO MAX HENKELS, OF NEW YORK, N. Y

, MANUFACTURE OF LACE WITH BODY BEARING LEAFLIKE FIGURES.

Application filed September 7, 1923. Serial No. 661,536.

To all whom it may concern: i

Be it known that I, EMIL BosnBEoK, a

- citizenof the German. Republic, and residing at Barmen, Rhenish Prussia, Germany, have invented certain new and useful Impgrovements in the Manufacture of Lace with leaf-like figures or of figures of similar design firmly incorporated in the lace proper and extending laterally'through the latter, by a novel method which renders the pro-" duction more simple, rapid, and economical.

Heretofore, superposed leaf-like figures which are arranged with their major or longer axis in an angular position relatively to the d rection of len th of the lace are produced in this way. number of threads selected from the ground-work threads'is conducted substantially in the longitudinal direction of the figure which, during its formation is arranged with the longeraxis' parallelly with the direction of length of the '.ice, while simultaneously another selected thread is led to and fro in the transverse direction of the figure and thereby interlaced withthe longitudinal threads, the weaving oi the lace-ground or net being discontinued during the time the figure is plaited. The leaflet so formed is then set at the desired angle, say at a right angle to the 1ongitudiual: direction of the lace, whereupon the selected threads are again worked into the lace-ground and thus returned to the groundwork threads from which they had been taken. This mode of working is very prosy; it requires 'muchtime and is, consequently, very expensive. Furthermore, the

leaflets 'areconnected to the lace-ground at the two ends of each figure only, whereby the durability of the lace is greatly d1m1n ished. Finally, the figures are visibleat one side of the lace only, so that the application of the latter is limited to objects possessing hierely one show-side.

eee her obj et 9f e 'iewsti e a 1.1

crease the durability of such lace and at the same time to produce figures of the kind referred to which appear to be superposed on both sides of the lace'-ground.

lVith these and other objects in view my invention consists of a novel arrangement and combination of threads based upon the principle described in my co-pending application Serial Nr. 611,065, filed January 6, .1923, according to .which the selected threads which form the figure are interlaced not only with each other but also with those threads of the adjoining lace-ground which pass the place where avfigure 18 to be formed. This principle is also applied to the manufacture of lace with body-bearing figures arranged with their major axis in an angular position relatively to the direction of length of the lace, with the modification, however, that a number of threads selected from the ground-work threads are conducted to and fro in the longitudinal direction of the figure and interlaced only with a plurality of ground-work threads which are led transversely through theleaflet, the latter being thereby from the beginning positioned at the desired angle to, the

longitudinal direction of the lace.

By these. means the production of lace with leaf-like figures arranged with their major axis at an angle to the direction of length of thelace is materially simplified. The weaving of the lace-ground need no more be discontinued during the formation of the leaflets, on the contrary, those parts of the lace-ground or net and of the lace edge which, looked at in the direction of breadth of the lace,-are disposed at both sides of a figure can be braided simultaneously with the latter. Consequently, the time necessary for manufacturing a given length of lace is shortened. Furthermore, the leaflike figures are now at every place of their entire length connected to the lace-ground, and finally, they appear to be superposed on the trout as well as on the back side of the lace.

The new process of making superposed leaf-like figures of the kind above referred tois more fully explained in the following description, reference being made to the annexed drawing which shows,by way of p e av p etax-ed e ab dim et i the 39 e i In the drawing,

Fig. 1 is a piece of lace of about actual size,

Fig. 2 is a part of that lace drawn on an enlarged scale and showing the novelarrangement and combination of threads in a leaf-like figure.

The lace shown is a so-called torchon lace comprising groups of four leaf-like figures arranged in the form of a so-called Maltese-cross. My invention may, however, also be applied to rlace of any other kind.

Referring first to Fig. 1, the lace comprises a wide-meshed net consisting of two groups of diagonally arranged braided bars a, a interconnected at their respective crossing points. At certain places, the widemeshed net is, as usual in tonchon lace, replaced by a small-meshed net 7) which is I formed by unravelling the ibraided bars a, a

into 'single'threads or strands and leading the latter partly in the diagonal, partly in the transverse direction of the .fabric, thereby interlacing them in a manner known as half-stitch.

To each part 1) of the lace-net a group of four body-bearing leaflets c, 0 (Z, d arranged in the form of a socal-led Maltesecross is applied. The longer axis ofthe leaflets 0, c are parallel with the longitudinal direction, #i. e. the direction-of length of the lace, whereas the leaflets d, d are arranged with their longer or major axis at a right angle to said direction.

The leaflet-s 0, 0 are produced in the manner described in my co-pending application Serial N1. 611,065, that is to say, they consist of a number of selected threads running substantially in the longitudinal direction of the figure and of another selected thread led to and *fro in the transverse direction of the figure and interlaced with the said longitudinal threads as well as with a plurality of threads of the adjoining lace-net which are conducted transversally through the figure. The leaflets (Z, al are formed in a similar manner by means of one or more selected threads running to and fro and a number of ground-work threads led transversally through the figure. However, the formation of the leaflets (Z, d differs from that of. the leaflets 0, c in the facts that, on the one hand, merely ground-work threads m, m, i. e. threads of the adjoining lace-net are conducted transversally through the figure, while, on the other hand, the selected threads n, 0 are led to and fro in the longitudinal direction of the figure, said selected threads being, at the same time, interlaced with said ground-work threads m, m, as more fully shown in Fig. '2. In order to obtain the desired pointed ends of the leaflet, thethreads n, 0 run in the middle of the figure over the entire length of the latter.

while at the side parts of the leaflet said threads n, 0 are conducted over parts of the length of the figure only, that is to say, the closer the convolutions of the threads n, 0 are to the ends of the minor axis of the figure the shorter are the convolutions, and

The selected threads 11, 0 may be thicker than the other threads of the lace. When four leaflets are arranged .in the form of a cross, as shown, I prefer to producea longitudinally Iarranged leaflet 0 or -0 and a -:transversely arranged leaflet d or (Z by means of one and the same selected thread. For instance, that thread which was led to and fro in the figure .0 is :conducted into the leaflet 0F, and then led to, and fro in this figure. the lace in the direction of breadth, parts of the leaflets c and d are disposed side by side, the selected thread taken from the longitudinal leaflet 0 and this is the thread it in Fig. 2,:can only work .partof the figure (1 the rest of the latter being formed by another selected thread, the thread 0 in Fig. '2. In the leaflets a, (Z the arrangement of the threads is similar, the only difference being this that theselected thread which commonly forms the figurecand part of the figure :(Z is :first led to and fro in the leaflet (Z and then conducted into the figure 0, because the figure d is, looked at in the working direction of the lace, positioned before the ileaflet c.

I .wish it to be stated that my invention is not limited to the exact lace shown and described for many alterations andvariations number of selected threads usedfor forming a figure may be altered, if desired.

Claims #1. The method of producing =mach1nebraided torch'on lace with leaflets standing out in relief from ibothzsidesgthe major :axis of which leaflets extends transversely of the major axis of the lace, which method comprises forming each fleafl'et by leading a plurality of ground threads in warplike interspaced manner "transversely to the When, however, on looking at major axis of the leaflet and by then leading at least one selected ground thread in close weftlike interlacing manner to and fro through said warp threads and finally returning said selected thread back to the ground again.

2. The method of producing machinebraided torchon lace with leaflets standing out in relief from both sides the major axis of which leaflets extends transversely of the major axis of the lace, which method comprises forming each leaflet by leading a plurality of ground threads in warplike interspaced manner transversely to the major axis of the leaflet, and by then leading other selected ground threads in closely aggregated loops in weft-like intercrossing mani'ier to and fro through said warp threads, the loops of said selected threads diminishing in extent toward the sides of the leaflet and thus engaging a correspondingly decreasing number of said warp threads.

3. In the method according to claim 2, the step of using still other ground threads for framing the leaflet by interlacing them with one another and with the weft and the warp threads as they emerge from the leaflet.

a. Machine-braided t-orchon lace with leaflets standing out in relief from both sides, the major axis of which leaflets extends transversely of the major axis of the lace, each leaflet being formed by spaced ground threads extending in warplike manner transversely through the leaflet, and by at least one selected ground thread interlacingly led in weftlike manner to and fro through said warp threads in closely aggregated loops in the longitudinal direction of the leaflet.

5. Machine-braided torchon lace with leaflet-s standing out in relief from both sides, the major axis of which leaflets extends transversely of the major axis of the lace, each leaflet being formed by interspaced ground threads extending in warplike manner transversely through the leaflet, and by selected ground threads interengagingly led to and fro in Weftlike manner through said Warp threads in closely aggregated loops in the longitudinal direction of the leaflet, and the longitudinal extent of these loops diminishing toward the sides of the leaflet and correspondingly interlacing in the central part of the leaflet all of said warp threads and a gradually decreasing number thereof to- V ward the sides of the leaflet. I

In a machine-braided torchon lace according to claim 5, the feature that each leaflet is framed by other ground threads interlaced with one another and With said Warp and weft threads on their emergence from the leaflet.

In testimony whereof, I affix my signa ture. EMIL BOSEBEOK. 

